Practicing the rare technique of passementerie to weave her uniquely colourful tassels, Jessica Light is part of a long chain of East London trim weavers that dates back to the Huguenots. We get to chat to her here about her multiple and eclectic inspirations, and her courageous first steps into launching her own independent business.
At LAMP LDN we make it our mission to work with independent makers, artists and designers, and these creators become the fabric of our LAMP LDN community. We like to think of them as the Light in the LAMP, and this series gives us a few minutes to get to know them a little better. So, grab a mug of something warm and pull up a chair, as we chat to one of our makers - Jessica Light, founder of Jessica Light Trims and Tassels.
Since opening our shop in Peckham in 2020, Jessica was one of our first collaborators - we’ve been stocking her distinctively colourful and characterful tassels since we opened our doors. As London’s last passementerie weaver, Jessica’s bold contemporary designs have been seen in such eclectic places as Vivienne Westwood fashion shows and the Buckingham Palace balcony.
Tell us about your journey - how did the business begin?
I’ve been working in the passementerie trade for over 25 years, and was freelance in the interior, couture and fashion sectors for many years before setting up under my own name. I knew there was a gap in the trimmings market when I launched Jessica Light Trims and Tassels in 2008 for design-led contemporary products that used colour and materials in passementerie in a new way. I got a beautiful folder and set of postcards made, designed by Adam Brown, that I sent out to press and potential clients and the next day I had House and Garden and World of Interiors call me up for press and that the start and I haven’t looked back since.
Is there anyone in your life who has had a lasting influence on your taste and style?
I’ve inherited a love of tailored tweed from my grandmother.
What, would you say, are the biggest inspirations for your creations?
I take inspiration from everything! Things I see, things I hear, things I read or experience. It all goes into the spin cycle in my brain and comes out as passementerie. I don’t like references to be too literal and like to mix ideas together.
You’re London’s last passementerie weaver - how important is it, to you, to share ancient skills across generations?
I see myself as a gate keeper of passementerie techniques, as a link in a long chain of East London (one of the traditional areas where passementerie was produced) trim weavers that date back to the Huguenots. So it is very important to pass these skills on and not break that historic chain. I teach workshops and have written a book on the techniques, ‘Passementerie’, published by The Crowood Press.
Do you have a favourite moment of your making process?
I love the lightbulb moment when everything comes together, when the concept, colours, materials and techniques all work in harmony as one.
Tell us about your supply chain - where do you source your materials? Do you try to remain conscious of longevity and sustainability?
I try and source my materials as locally as possible. Most are made in Europe, so I know their provenance. My new Wares Project is about using the deadstock, discontinued and leftover materials that I have accumulated over the years and not buying in new yarns, so the products are one-offs or limited editions. All my passementerie is hand made by me, so I can ensure the quality.
Tell us something you love about your own home?
My bespoke Liam Treanor desk, my collection of studio pottery and my big sky view.
What’s your favourite thing about being an independent maker?
As I work to order and commission every job is different, and I still can’t quite believe that I make a living from being creative. It’s the best feeling making something that someone else loves
The Light in the Lamp Quick Fire Round
Your favourite cocktail
Currently it’s a Lillet Rose Spritz: Summer in a glass!
Your ideal Sunday morning
Depends on the weather. If it’s good, then I’m off and out for a hike in the Kent Downs or a paddle. If it’s bad, then it’s a lie in with a good book.
We’re coming round for dinner - what’s on the menu?
Slow-cooked ham with vegetables, parsley sauce and mustard dumplings, followed by an orange and sherry custard tart.
Your rainy afternoon comfort movie
The English Patient. The scene where Kit shows Hana the fresco in the church always makes my heart melt.
Your favourite pick from the current LAMP LDN collection (that isn’t something of yours!)
I love a bit of stationary and always keep a notebook to jot ideas and musings down, so I love Heather Evelyn’s beautiful notebooks.
You can follow Jessica Light on Instagram
Images from Kristin Perers & Kasia Bobula